After a first day in Big Bend National Park where I had to shift plans due to a missed turn, day two I made sure I knew exactly where to go for the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. As I headed out for the day, I tucked my “this stuff has to go somewhere but I don’t know where yet” box in the stairwell, knowing I would be taking hairpin turns and steep inclines and not wanting it flying all over the place.
No more than five minutes later something made me glance in my rearview mirror and I gasped; my side door was open and I saw my belongings fluttering out. Slamming to a stop, I flipped on my emergency lights and dashed out the door. Paper and other items lay strewn along the side of the road. Someone was clearly looking out for me as I had caught it really quickly. My stuff was scattered only about fifty feet back from where I had stopped. Every item was salvaged (including my checkbooks!). I secured both locks this time, banged on it to ensure it wasn’t opening again, and headed out.
After that excitement, I figured the day could only get better. I was a woman with a plan. The road ended at the Santa Elena Canyon, so I figured I’d start at the end and work my way back. This plan worked out perfect, if I do say so myself (yes, I will pat myself on my back, thank you very much). The lot for the canyon hike was small, but I was probably one of the first half dozen vehicles there so I had plenty of space to park. As with the Boquillas Canyon, the Rio Grande had created this canyon and its waters flowed between the soaring cliffs and nurtured flourishing plant life.
Another aspect of my brillant plan to start at the end that worked well had to do with the pullovers that were scattered along the route. I realized as I was going in that the majority of them were on my left side. This meant that I could pull over for a scenic view as I departed without crossing traffic (not that the road was crazy busy or anything).
One part of the drive that I was nervous about was the swtichbacks (switchbacks = steep). On the way down I definately stressed out, tapping my brakes as I crawled down and around the mountains. I was extremely nervous about the return trip, but found myself halfway up before I even realized I'd reached a steep incline. V10 engine for the win!
An unexpected part of my day included learning about the people who had farmed the area before it was turned into a national park. Not only did they have ruins of old farmsteads, but also described the life and work of the people. I had never before considered who had lived on the land before it became a national park.
Along the drive I was able to stop and explore a wide range of trails and sites. I was blown away by the the rock formations. Apparently (because I’m one of those nerds who likes reading the signs) the Chisos Mountains were once a volcano and so the rock formations on and around them are layers of the old volcanic basaltic (aka rock), covered by pyroclastic flow deposits (basically a gravel and clay mixture), topped with the silica-rich lava and volcanic tuffs (a fancy word for ash). Because they are vastly different types of rock they not only look different, they weather different, and so create beautifully shaped and multi-colored rock formations. I couldn’t get enough of it and stopped at just about every opportunity, taking way too many pictures!
My weekend in Big Bend exceeded my expectations. As I settled in for my final night at the RV Park, I had a great chat with the camp host, who pointed me in a new direction: the local ghost town (and cemetery!) and a little detour to my next destination through Big Bend Ranch State Park – a drive which he said was “the most beautiful drive in all of Texas.” With those words in my mind I left Big Bend to seek my next adventure as I continued westward (well, really northwest!)
That was awesome and beautiful. A place worth visiting.
Spectacular scenery--and great photography as well! Ansel Adams would be pleased :)