Big Bend: Rivers & Canyons

After a week of working my way along the border of Texas and Mexico (at one point I was so close to Mexico that my phone welcomed me there!), I finally was headed to my first big national park: Big Bend.

As I left Del Rio, the scenery almost instantly shifted. While my drive from South Padre Island wasn’t filled with lush greenery, it was normal. As I crossed the Amistad Reservoir the world around me shifted into a craggy desert with multi-colored rock bluffs. The closer I got to Big Bend the more stunning the scenery became.

My route to the RV park took me through Big Bend and it whet my appetite for my upcoming weekend. I could barely keep my eyes on the road as the descending sun and fluffy clouds put the high mountains into stark relief (the sun was pretty bright behind those massive hills!).

I only had two full days to explore Big Bend. Everyone told me it wouldn’t be enough, but I’m a skilled “packing a lot in” traveler! In addition, some of the more popular activities were off the table because:

1. Traveling alone, back-country hiking isn’t smart unless you’re an experiences survivalist.

2. The Chisos Basin banned vehicles longer than 20 feet.

3. Taking a land or river tour wasn’t something I was willing to risk during a pandemic!

Even with these limitations, I knew there would be a lot to do and see. To ensure I got the most out of my time I made a quick stop at the Rangers’ Station for a map and suggestions from the experts (Park Rangers kinda know what they’re talking about, so why not ask?).

Day one, my plan was to take the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, stopping along the way for hikes and pictures. As I started back into Big Bend I didn’t use my GPS (there were, like, 3 roads in the whole park, how could I go wrong?). Somehow, in an act of spiteful revenge my GPS (who is evil) managed to mess with me even though he was turned off. About 20 miles into the park I realized I’d somehow missed my turn and was almost to park headquarters in the center of the park. Not to be deterred, I switched my plan for the day (good traveling is always “subject to change"), and headed down to the Rio Grande Village and Boquillas Canyon.

This area of Big Bend lies on a part of the Rio Grande that borders Mexico. There’s even a place you can legally cross over within the park itself. The lush greenery surrounding the river lay in stark contrast to the desert that dominates the majority of the park. Within a mile of the river arid plants dominated. At the base of a canyon carved by the river itself was a serene pool, green and sparkling, even in the shade of the cliffs surrounding it.

When I finished hiking around the Rio Grande, I headed to another area of the park suggested by the ranger. First stop was the Fossil Discovery Exhibition. While none of the actual fossils are kept on-site anymore (some dufus ruined it for everyone in the 90s and tried to steal them, so they were replaced with copies). The original exhibit was built around the very rocks which the first fossils had been found. I was amazed by the fact that they had found complete skulls of certain dinosaurs just beyond where I stood!

With a little time left before my bewitching hour (Cinderella had til midnight, I only have until sunset), I drove to Dog Canyon Trail which, the ranger had told me (with great excitement), led to a mountain range that had been created by one plate pushing another straight up. Because of this the land leading to the cliffs was completely flat, walls rising vertically from the desert plain. Flat was good, so I figured the four miles round trip hike would be a cinch.

At first, it was easy, mostly dodging the stream that had collected in the warn path from the rain the night before. I happily followed the well-marked route to a crossroads of sorts – to the left the Dog Canyon, to the right Devil’s Den. As the canyon was my goal, I turned left, walking into a drybed river. About a half mile in I encountered the strangest mud I had ever walked on; with each step it built upon itself (and rocks) until I felt like I was wearing cement boots.

The canyon was pretty cool but the walk back was the same muddy mess as the walk there, so I picked my way back with care, watching my step so I wouldn’t fall or slip.

Have you ever noticed that when you have to backtrack, the trip always feels longer? You know what else makes the trip feel longer? Missing the trail that leads back to your vehicle so your four mile hike turns into at least six.

By the time I got back to my RV I was tired and sore, barely able to pull myself up into the cab. While I had both food and water to sustain me, I did feel like the name of that path was appropriate: Devil’s Den. That night I think I was asleep by eight.

Thanks to the joy of pain meds, I was up and ready to go again by dawn the next day. But this time I would make sure I knew exactly where to turn for the scenic drive!

Want more Big Bend? Read about day two by clicking on the post below!